El Dia de Diablo in Quetzaltenango, Guatemala
It’s 5 am in the Guatemalan city of Quetzaltenango when I’m woken up by a thunderous bang followed by a flash of lights, as a surge of car alarms begin ringing. I jolt up with a considerable amount of panic before I remember the warning from my Spanish teacher, Cynthia. During class yesterday we discussed the cultural differences of how we celebrate birthdays. Setting fireworks off to celebrate a family birthday at 5 am in Quetzaltenango is normal behaviour.
Quetzaltenango is the second-largest city in Guatemala, with around 200,000 inhabitants, many of whom are Mayan. The city's original name in the Mayan language K’iche was Xelaju No’j, from which the more common name Xela (pronounced shey-la) originated.
Xela is nestled in the heart of the Sierra Madre mountain range, 2335m above sea level. The city is four hours away from the Mexican border and four hours away from the capital, Guatemala City. Although not the most common stop on a Guatemala travel itinerary, the city is frequented by passing Spanish students or visitors coming to hike through the highlands or one of the eight surrounding volcanoes.
After an early awakening and a morning of Spanish classes, I join a tour arranged by the school to the neighbourhood of Salcajá. On my way there, Cristian, our guide, informs us our visit to Salcajá coincides with El Dia del Diablo, one of the many festive celebrations here in Xela.
El Dia de Diablo translates as the ‘Day of the Devil’ and is celebrated annually around Guatemala. Typically every December 7th once the sun had set you would see stacks of household rubbish topped with a satanic sculpture being burnt. Although the exact origin is unknown, it’s a spiritual way of banishing the devil before the subsequent religious festival, the Immaculate Conception of the Virgin Mary. However, nowadays with the dangers of burning rubbish more widely known, the neighbourhood of Salcajá commemorates this day slightly differently.
In my first glimpses of Salcajá, I see crowds of people lining each side of the road with music booming out of the oversized speakers dotted around. Everyone chatting to those around them, kids playing football and others pleading with their parents for some candy floss. Although I don’t know exactly what is about to happen, I’m expecting a parade of some sort. I’d seen a fair few religious parades during my time in Xela with people carrying mantles covered in candles and offerings for a particular catholic saint. But I guess in this case I should have expected things to be different, after all, it's the day of the devil, not a saint.
I hear loud cracks and whistles before I start to see people dressed in a handful of different costumes all wearing menacing red ‘devil-like’ masks, charging down the road. By the time they get nearby, my view has become obscured by smoke coming from the mass amount of firecrackers being set off mere steps from where I stand. My ears begin to ring from the thundering noise of the firecrackers mixed with the incessant whistle-blowing coming from the dressed-up devils.
As the smoke lifts, I look around and see the masses of people laughing and smiling, albeit I find myself confused and a little startled. Groups of a similar nature keep passing through the street in elaborate costumes, some wearing embroidered capes and jackets with red tridents in hand. Others are covered in black, white and red body paint with devil horns headpieces on, a look to scare most, but clearly not the neighbourhood of Salcajá.
The loud booms continue even as the streams of people start to slow, as I slowly process the obscurity of what I just witnessed. I can’t shake the idea of this memorable festivity seeming more like a celebration of the satanic figure than a banishing.
On the journey back to my accommodation I see a few half-dressed devils, which are a lot less menacing without the red masks. Although the horror costumes aren’t something I will forget soon. Throughout the night I hear the familiar sound of firecrackers and I’m not sure whether they are being thrown down outside or I’m just having flashbacks.
5 Other Things to do in Quetzaltenango
Learn about the Mayan art of weaving at Trama Textiles
Relax and unwind at Los Fuentes Georginas Hot Springs
Hike one of the 8 surrounding volcanoes
Experience sensory overload at Mercado La Democracia
Tower over the city at the viewpoint Cerro El Baul Mirador
Touring there: Quetzaltrekkers, a local non-profit tour operator can help arrange both multi-day and single-day treks, as well as shuttles around Guatemala.
Studying and staying there: Utatlán Spanish School offers both Spanish lessons and accommodation.
