Bogota, Colombia Travel Guide
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Bogota is the capital and largest city of Colombia, surrounded by mountain ranges including the Andes. Bogota doesn’t always get the rave reviews of some other Colombian cities *cough, cough Medellin*. But after spending over 2 weeks in Bogota, I can confidently say it surpassed the expectations set for us by other backpackers.
We were told to expect gloom and doom and unsafe areas, but really we didn’t encounter any of that. Instead, we met some friendly people and saw what a very metropolitan life looked like in Colombia.
Bogota is home to Colombia's biggest airport, so if you’re flying internationally into Colombia it's likely to be your first stop. So don’t rush to get out as fast as you can, give yourself a few days and make your own opinions on the city of Bogota.
You’ll find everything you need to know about Bogota in this travel guide, including handy tips and tricks to make your trip smoother, so enjoy!
Getting to and Around Bogota Colombia
The fact Bogota is so large is both positive and negative, there’s plenty to see but there is also probably quite some distance between places you would like to visit. But let’s start at the beginning shall we, it’s likely you will be arriving at El Dorado Airport.
If public transport is your jam you will find a bus outside the airport that will take you to the Transmileno station Portal Eldorado, from here you can pretty much take the Transmileno to wherever you wish within the city. I don’t personally recommend this option to get from the airport or to get around Bogota either, nor do I have too much more information on the ins and outs of the Transmileno system, find that here.
As we arrived late at night in Bogota we booked a private transfer to take us to our accommodation. However, after going to and from Bogota airport a few times my most recommended option is to just get an Uber. You may read about how Uber was technically banned in Colombia, but it was also technically banned in London, they just continued running as a private hire car service.
We encountered no issues using Uber anywhere in Bogota and found it a simple and affordable way to get around the city. The driver may ask someone to sit in the front seat, particularly for journeys to the airport, just to make it look less like an Uber in case someone is patrolling at the airport. But don’t be put off by this, just always look at the driver's name and honestly, we went to and from the airport with Uber maybe 4 times and not once did anyone say anything.
You will also find apps like Cabify and inDrive also work in Bogota and can often be even cheaper than Uber. Also as you can imagine there isn’t a shortage of normal taxis either, I personally would use the apps as they make me feel safer, but obviously how I travel doesn’t have to be how you travel. It's worth noting the traffic in Bogota gets really crazy, so leave enough time to get to your destination.
So that covers the airport and general ferrying around the city, but what if you're headed further afield by bus instead of a plane? Now this got really confusing for me as there are many bus stations within Bogota, so I’m going to break it down for you, by discussing the main options:
Terminal Salitre- this is possibly the largest bus terminal I have ever seen in my life, it’s probably bigger than most airports in the UK. Although that makes it confusing it also means you can get to wherever you want to go from here, Medellin, Salento, Cali and more. However, due to its location, you can be stuck on the bus in Bogota’s infamous traffic jams, so you can opt to use the other terminals if you wish to get stuck in a taxi instead of a bus.
Terminal Norte- if you're headed north of Bogota to places such as Villa de Leyva, Zipaquirá and San Gil this is the fastest bus station to leave from.
Terminal del Sur- if you are headed south of Bogota to places such as Tatacoa Desert/Neiva or Cali this is the fastest bus station to leave from.
When it comes to choosing which bus station to leave from I would advise seeing which bus station is closest to your accommodation and comparing that with the fastest buses. Although it isn’t necessary nor do I recommend buying bus tickets in advance, I used RedBus to check timetables and lengths of the journey.
Travel Tip- Buses in Colombia run to the beat of their own drum, don’t expect them to be on time, don’t expect them to arrive on time and strap yourself in for an experience.
Weather in Bogota Colombia
One word, unpredictable.
The temperature in Bogota stays similar almost year-round, with the average being around 18 Celsius in the day. The distinct seasons are the rainy seasons, one in April/May and the other in October/November, you can see a LOT of rain during these times.
During our time in Bogota (March) it rained most days, usually in the afternoon, but the rain never hung around for too long. It would be cloudy one minute and before you knew it you were taking off all the layers because the sun was blaring on you. So just be prepared for the unexpected.
Bogota as I mentioned before is surrounded by the Andes mountain range, meaning Bogota is 2600m above sea level. It’s unlikely to experience any severe altitude sickness at this level, but if you go on any sort of hike you may find yourself losing your breath a little quicker and if you are unfamiliar with altitude maybe a slight headache. Nothing to worry about though, we didn’t notice any real changes in the way we felt.
The high altitude however means when the sun does come, it comes out strong and it’s really important to keep the SPF on. Just ask my cousin who got burnt to a crisp at the mild temperature of 18 Celsius.
Where to Stay in Bogota Colombia?
In my eyes there are two neighbourhoods in Bogota I recommend staying in; La Candelaria or Parque 93, let me explain a little more about each:
La Candelaria
A super cool and hip neighbourhood, you will find a big scene of artists, students and backpackers here. As more of a historical area of Bogota, you will also find government buildings, museums and a more dated style of architecture here. I recommend Botanico Hostel in La Candelaria to any backpackers looking for a place to stay, check out my full review here —>
Parque 93
My personal favourite area to stay in, I just loved how many shops, cafes, bars and restaurants were easily accessible. It’s a lot more commercial than La Candelaria, there are skyscrapers and malls and a feel of that city hustle and bustle here. Parque 93 is technically located within the Chapinero neighbourhood, which also includes the popular nightlife area of Zona Rosa home to Bogota’s biggest discotecas. Selina Parque 93 is the perfect place for those on a budget with both dorm and private rooms, my full review is here —>.
Need an upgrade from hostels? We loved our stay at Hotel Bluedoors 100 Luxury Suites, just a stone's throw away from Parque 93, check them out here —>
Safety in Bogota Colombia
I have quite a lot to say about this topic, however, I will preface it with this; everyone has different experiences in different places depending on how they live their lives, so when people, including me, talk about safety take it with a pinch of salt.
Every time we spoke to someone about the fact our first stop in Colombia was Bogota, they all said the same thing “Be careful, it's dangerous”. And after spending 2 weeks in Bogota I can happily say I do believe it’s perfectly safe to visit Bogota. I HATE fear-mongering and I strongly disagree with the picture that gets painted of Latin America being “unsafe” or “dangerous”, I mean it’s not any country in Latin America that takes the crown for having the most mass shootings, but I don’t see anyone telling you to not go to New York because it’s too dangerous.
I do however believe when you are travelling anywhere new in the world you should take a few basic precautions. They have the perfect saying for this in Colombia “No dar papaya” translating literally as “Don’t give papaya”, what they mean by this is don’t make yourself a target. So the usual rules stand, don’t flash valuables, don’t walk down empty streets at night, be extra cautious if you go out drinking and just stay away from the drugs.
As for safety in Bogota, there was one precaution I don’t normally take and that was to get Ubers everywhere. It’s a big city and we couldn’t navigate it confidently as tourists, it just eliminated any risk of us accidentally walking into an unsafe situation. Plus Uber is very affordable here, for an hour-long journey we paid £4-7.
Keep your wits about you, except as a tourist you are more of a target of petty theft, be mindful of what neighbourhood you are in, don't be a drunk idiot and you will be perfectly safe in Bogota.
Things to do in Bogota Colombia
Climb to the Top of Monserrate
There are a few different ways to reach the top of Monserrate and it really depends on how energetic you are feeling. You can opt to walk to the top, which I believe takes between 2 and 3 hours or if you want a simpler route you can opt to take the funicular or cable car, a return ticket costs 27,000 COP per person. Once you get to the top you’ll have some fantastic views over the city given it’s not too much of a cloudy and rainy day.
Stroll around the Botanical Gardens
There aren’t loads of green spaces in Bogota, but if you're in need of a walk in nature and have an interest in seeing plants from every region in Colombia this is the activity for you. Bear in mind it's closed on Mondays for maintenance, 8-5 Tues-Fri, 9-5 Sat-Sun. Close by is also the Simon Bolivar Park, so you could double up and visit both, locally the park is used for exercise, with outdoor gyms scattered around and also occasionally the park hosts concerts.
Take a Graffiti Tour of La Candelaria
One of my favourite activities we did in Bogota was a graffiti tour, it was such a fascinating way to discover more about the city and the artwork in La Candelaria is incredible. I totally recommend doing the tour with Gran Colombia, our guide was fantastic and had the patience to let us ask all the questions.
Visit the Museo del Oro
Also known as the Gold Museum, you will find a display of pre-Colombian gold and other sorts of artefacts on display here. To understand more about the important role gold played in Colombia's history you can rent an audioguide or take a guided tour of the museums. It is closed on Mondays and entry costs 5000 COP per person.
Play a Game of Tejo
Tejo is a classic Colombian game which is usually enjoyed with beer and it kind of feels like a classic fair game but with much louder sounds. You throw a disk at a clay board with small pockets of gunpowder, you'll know if you hit it as it you'll see a tiny explosion. You'll find hostels and other tour providers offer experiences if you want to try this for yourself.
Watch a Football Match
Honestly when travelling in Colombia attending a football match is a right of passage and something I highly encourage. Bogota is home to two teams, Santa Fe and Millonarios. We went with Bogota Football Tour and the experience was fantastic, we met great people, learnt a chant or two and they even sorted transport.
Take a Walking or Bike Tour of Bogota
If you want to learn more about the history of Bogota, I advise taking a walking tour, they will also show you around many of the main sites of the city. It's a great way to see the most especially if you are pushed for time. Gran Colombia offers both walking and bike tours of Colombia, check them out here.
Admire the art at the Botero Museo
Fernando Botero is a famous Colombian artist who is known for his exaggerated paintings and sculptures, he also happened to donate a lot of work to the city of Bogota in exchange for them displaying it in a free museum as well as Botero’s work you’ll also find many pieces from other artists, well worth a visit in my opinion.
Visit Lake Guatavita and Salt Cathedral
One of the most popular day trips from Bogota is to visit the Zipaquirá Salt Cathedral, an incredibly unique temple carved inside a salt mine. Although many chose to visit the Salt Cathedral only, I highly recommend a tour that also takes you to Lake Guatavita. It was a sacred site to the native Muisca people until colonisers attempted to excavate the gold that was supposedly in this lake, you may know this as the legend of El Dorado. It’s well worth the day trip from Bogota and I have linked the tour with went with here.
Eat the Best Pasta at Storie D’Amore
If you like pasta, it would be a crime to not visit here, this Italian restaurant has 3 different locations in Bogota and has spots in other Colombian cities. So, a slight detour, if you don’t know me, my favourite meal is pasta and cheese, boring I know but whatever. This place makes the world’s greatest cheesy pasta, their Fettuccine al Parmigiano Reggiano. They come over to your table where they heat up the pasta and swirl it around in a giant block of cheese, it's a niche market but if there are any pasta and cheese lovers out there, don’t miss this in Bogota. I’d honestly fly back here just for one more dish.
Head to the Cinema
Okay, this one is a little unusual for a thing to do for a tourist guide, however, hear me out, it rains a lot in Bogota. And what better to do when it rains than go to the cinema! For fellow English speakers I recommend Cine Colombia, they have locations all around Bogota and have a wide selection of movies in English. Whilst looking at timings on their website, you are looking for the movies with the ‘Subtitulado” or ‘Subtitled” label as this means they will be shown in English with Spanish subtitles. Side note: If you use a VPN to access the Cine Colombia website you will need your IP to be showing as in Colombia.
Bonus Thing To Do- Gabriel García Márquez Cultural Center in La Candelaria is free and if you head to the top floor there are some lovely views, as well as a free exhibit that changes regularly and a cute bookstore.
Overnight Trips from Bogota Colombia
Villa de Leyva
Villa de Leyva is a small town surrounded by hills just 4 hours north of Bogota. You will feel the charm of this town as soon as you arrive with courtyards, cobbled streets, colonial-style buildings and flowers everywhere, it’s the perfect escape from the big city. Although it is possible to visit Villa de Leyva in a day from Bogota, I don’t recommend this, so if you have the time stay a night or two.
Find out more about Villa de Leyva here ->
Tatacoa Desert
The Tatacoa Desert is truly a unique destination in Colombia and one that truly took my breath away. As it’s located around a 7/8 hour drive from Bogota, it’s certainly not somewhere you can visit on a day trip, but it is well worth the effort. You’ll walk around landscapes that make you feel like you could be on a different planet and then when evening comes you’ll be able to spot some other planets.
Discover everything you need to know about visiting Tatacoa here ->
For me, Bogota exceeds the very low expectations that were set by other people. Although it’s not my number one place to visit in Colombia, I think it's an important place to visit if you're travelling all around Colombia. Bogota is full of museums, galleries, street art and fascinating people which all give you a look into Colombia’s past and present. Obviously, each area of Colombia has its own story but Bogota gives you a little glimpse into all, so don’t listen to the negative talk about Bogota. Spend a few days there and make your own opinion of the city.
Did you like Bogota or not? Let me know in the comments below and as always if you are planning your visit soon, feel free to ask any questions.
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